Hardworking - a bright light burns through life, lazy - a dim candle

Building a base pattern - THE MOST CLEAR WAY (for beginners)

Good afternoon! I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewed a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for yourself. And since we have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.

SO IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And by ourselves, with our own hands and our brains, master the wisdom of sewing according to real adult patterns. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - in a new easy way (I spent more than one week to create this lightweight method for constructing a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all sorts of dresses, tops and tunics.

Not- I will not give you a single ready-made pattern!

I am not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character lies in the fact ... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all arts. Trust me, it is.

Yes- sewing by yourself is very easy and simple!

Right from scratch, you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and bright memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will reveal to you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and modeling clothes yourself.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers indicating the intricacies of the numerous lines of the pattern drawing. NO, I WON'T TAKE YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can catch fear and make a girl doubt her own abilities, who really wants to make a dress- but I was not very friendly in my school years with geometry and drawing. Even I - who loves both of these school subjects - beat around the bush for several years - not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long does it take to draw this, and you need to calculate everything correctly and not get confused in the letters ... ".

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (you can see a piece of it from above.))))

But - do not rush to get scared - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering and design method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one with you - only one and only- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new models of dresses. And it will be very easy and simple.

• No obscure formulas
• No messy calculations.
• And without the letter-number cobweb.

Well, how? Have I removed a bit of your concerns?

I now relax - we will not start drawing right now. To begin with, we will take a pleasant walk through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get acquainted, make friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So ... what is a pattern - the basis?

To put it figuratively, it is a cast from your body. This is your personal imprint. Any thing sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit perfectly on YOUR figure.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All-all models of dresses - are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is a base pattern.

I will now prove to you with an example. Even on three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our base pattern is, in fact, your sheath dress (the one that fits perfectly on the figure). Dress made according to your pattern based, will repeat all the bends your his body. This simple sheath dress is sewn according to the usual pattern-base. You see, it's like a plaster cast of a girl's figure.

And today, having drawn a base pattern, you can safely cut on the fabric - and you will get such a dress. The only thing you can change the neckline is by giving it the shape that suits your face shape.

All other (any, any) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free topic.

That's how it works in the fashion world.

One day the fashion designer thought...“But what if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - fig. below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping opposite triangles (red outlines - fig. below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Handsomely? Handsomely! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? On a base pattern. And you can come up with something of your own. We - women - just a lot of fantasy.

By the way - since we are talking about a round yoke here - this site already has one of my articles on creating and

And another fashion designer thought: “But what if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the line of the shoulder longer so that it hangs on the arm. And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And very simple.

You can do that too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist.

That's why I don't want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (such as “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects with line X with the next point ...” - ugh!).

I want to wake up in you chuechka. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. And learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any, even intricately tailored, dress.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk along the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line is for, and why it is located exactly here and drawn that way.

After such a "cognitive walk" you will feel the joyful clarity of understanding of everything-everything-everything. It's as if you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Delov something!

As the wise man said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause fear in us.

So let's go and tame this "terrible beast" - a base pattern. Tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and well-known simple pattern - like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from such a drawing:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simply and clearly.

And what are these halves for, and where to apply them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photograph of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both half of the back and half of the front. So to speak - clearly and clearly.

Yes, in the Potnovsky language, the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these very shelves of the front and back. But first, let's take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you what each element is for, what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real models of dresses.

First, let's get acquainted with two obscure words: TRUCK and ARMHOLE.

Of course, you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.

So, get acquainted - PROYMA

When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and the size an armhole that fits you—when the armhole doesn't pull or dig into your arm.

That is, the pattern base contains acceptable minimum armhole size. You can model the armhole to your taste, any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be less than on the base pattern. That is, an armhole on a pattern basis - These are the limits beyond which your imagination should not intercede.

Your model armhole can be arbitrarily larger - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. Here is a rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the tucks.

BACK PATCHES - shoulder darts + waist darts

Here in the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don’t see the shoulder tuck on this dress. And on many dresses, too, it is not. Because for convenience and beauty, this tuck is transferred from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the tuck. And the extra fabric cut off in a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.

Also, darts are optional if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself repeats the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder area and in the waist area.

Next, let's get to know… HALF FRONT darts

Oh, you could write a whole poem about her.

I thought for a long time how to explain it more clearly - what it is for and what laws it lives by. I thought and thought ... and came up with.

The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, the front of an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress in the chest area should be convex. The tuck on the shoulder of the front gives the dress this very bulge in the chest area. Now I will show everything in pictures. How does this happen.

For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example - this flat circle of cardboard, with the help of a tuck, will now become convex.

And here is how the chest tuck creates a bulge on the front detail

You noticed that the top of the bulge (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the point of the tuck. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw a tuck for the chest, the tip of our tuck will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or dome of the bra is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you measured a dress in your size in a store, which somehow strangely warped on your chest - this is because the tuck in the dress was directed with its tip past top of your chest. Here the chest did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. Not under your breast shape, this product was cut at the factory.

But that's not all, what I want to say about the chest tuck.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest tuck is located not on the shoulder- a on the side just below the armpit. It's made for beauty. The tuck on the shoulder is more conspicuous, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest tuck on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw it there from the point of view of building a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the tuck from the shoulder area to the axillary area. Do not think that for this you need to make new drawings. Nope, everything is simple here - how to open a carton of milk - one minute and that's it.

Here, in the picture below, I schematically depicted transfer of the chest tuck from the shoulder to the side seam at hand.

Well, do you already feel how you have grown wiser in these 15 minutes?))) Whether there will be more ... We continue our walk along the pattern and now we will get acquainted with the lines. horizontal lines

CHEST LINE

The first acquaintance is the line of the chest. (A beautiful dress, isn't it? We'll sew it with you. Don't even hesitate)

The chest line is the most wonderful line on the pattern. It is so convenient to navigate it when drawing a base pattern, because:

• We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck of the back on the chest line.
• We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck before reaching 4 cm to the chest line.
• We know that the shoulder tuck is the front - we finish drawing on the chest line.
• We know that the lower edges of the armholes also run along the chest line.

Well, no, of course, you don't know that yet. I will give all these simple rules when we start drawing. And for now, I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of the pattern, you can simply focus on the line of the chest (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these alphanumeric dots).

As you can see, there are a lot!! Therefore, go ahead - learn, sew and enjoy life)))

AND WHAT SHOULD I DO NEXT - WITH THE PATTERN BASIS? - you ask

And we will begin to sew according to the pattern-base of TOPS. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.

You ask: "Hey, why not just dresses?". I give the answer to this question already in the first article of the cycle, so to be continued)))

Good luck with your sewing!

In the article, read how to build a basic pattern without tucks with your own hands and download ready-made patterns built on such a basis.

The basis for women without darts attracts with the simplicity of beginners in learning to cut and sew, you need to understand that the features of this design impose some restrictions on its use.

So, for example, you should not recommend a pattern based on no tucks to girls with large breasts. Even when using stretch fabrics for sewing, in styles without a bust dart, you will have to choose a very large allowance for a loose fit. Otherwise, you risk getting irreparable defects in the finished product or the usual pattern-base for stretch.

Download the universal table of taking measurements

Differences in women's patterns of the base

Before proceeding to the construction of the drawing, we note the differences between the female pattern of the base without darts and the pattern of the base for stretch.

How to build a basic pattern for a stretch

The main thing is an increase in free fit. At the base without tuck Pg at least 6 cm and can reach 12 cm. In a stretch base Pg is minimal and can have negative values ​​if you take into account the stretch coefficients for highly stretchy fabrics.

It is equally important to take into account the height of the barrel - wb below in the base without tuck.

What these designs have in common is that the measure rcg missing, and Npp removed, as for a male pattern.

If we talk about the differences in a simplified way, then the base without darts is more structurally reminiscent of a men's shirt than a women's turtleneck.

Algorithm for constructing a pattern for a women's base without tucks

We start the construction by calculating the total width of the base so that it can fit on a sheet of paper. If it does not fit, you can make patterns for the shelves and backs on different sheets.

Warp Width = Sat + Pb , where 4 - 6 cm.

We start drawing horizontal lines from the bottom - we retreat from the bottom of the sheet 3 cm to perform lowering of the shelf later and draw a bottom line.

Up from the bottom line Di- original backrest, down from the original - Ds- waist level.

From the waist down 18 cm- hips and up from the waist

Dboch minus 2 cm

For blouses with a larger increase from Dboch can be taken up to 4 cm.

Done with horizontal lines.

To complete the so-called "grid" we will carry out some calculations. They can be recorded in the measurement table

1/2 (Cr + Pg) minus 2 cm - bust width

1/2 (Sat + Pb) minus 2 cm - hip width

ws + 1 cm(if Pg more 4th can be added to Shs before 2 - 3 cm) - width to armhole

1/2 (Sg + Pg) + 2 cm- bust width

1/2 (Sat + Pb) + 2 cm- hip width

W 2 + 1 cm(if Pg more 4th you can add 2 - 2.5 cm) - width to armhole

We measure the finished values ​​​​in the drawing (Fig. 2) at the desired horizontal lines and the grid is ready.

The sprout and neck are drawn in smooth lines, after their width is determined at the level of the original lines and the height at the middle lines.

Sprout width = 1/3 Ssh + 0.5 cm

Plant height = 1/3 plant width

Neck width = sprout width

Neck height = sprout width + 1 cm .

Shoulder cut - connects the shoulder point and the lateral point of the sprout and neck. The shoulder point is located at the intersection of two arcs made by radii Dp and VPK- for the back Dp and Npp- for the shelf.

To increase the length of the armhole and be able to wear a blouse with shoulder pads, you can add to the above measurements by 1 - 2 cm. And add more to the length of the back shoulder 0.5 cm fit instead of a shoulder tuck.

Armhole points

From the corner of the armhole (it is indicated in yellow) up vertically for the back about 6 cm, for a shelf - about 5 cm, along the bisectors of the corners of the armhole for the back about 3 cm, for a shelf approximately 2,5 . These figures may vary depending on the size. They are especially “sensitive” to the ratio of the width of the shelf along the chest to the measure. Shg 2. The more Shg 2, the narrower and longer the armhole of the shelf turns out, which is why for busty beauties it is better to take the bases with chest tucks.

Building a base pattern without tucks AUTHOR: ANNASOTNIKOVA · PUBLISHED Building a grid: Put point A AT down = Dts + 1 = 38 + 1 =39; AG down \u003d Vprz + Pspr \u003d 20 + 3 \u003d 23; TB down = Dlb = 20; TT * to the right 1.5 cm - this is a RETRACT (a constant value - we set a small fit on the back); G * G1 to the right we set aside the width of the grid \u003d Cr3 + Increase in the chest \u003d 45.4 + 5 \u003d 50.5; G*G4 to the right side seam = G*G1 ÷ 2 = 25.25; Armhole width: 1/4 (Cr3 + Pg) + 1 = 1/4 (45.5 + 5) + 1 = 13.6. From the point G4 we set aside to the right and to the left 6.8 each. Back construction: Back neck width - AA2 to the right = 1/3 Ssh + Pshgs = 18.2/3 + 0.55 = 6.6; 2. Back neck depth - A2A21 down = 1/3 AA2 + Pvgs = 6.6/3 + 0.21 = 2.4; 3. Auxiliary points needed to build the slope of the shoulder: from A2 to the right 9 cm. We put point 9. From point 9 down 1.5-3 cm. We take the standard - 2 cm. Depends on the shoulders: 1.5 cm - high shoulders; 2 - standard; 3 - sloping shoulders. 4. A2P1 to the right with a downward slope - shoulder width \u003d Shp + shoulder lengthening (can be from 1 to 6 cm) \u003d 13.3 + 2 \u003d 15.3; The lengthening of the shoulder is chosen so that the P1 point goes beyond the P1 point by at least 0.5 cm. This is necessary for the vertical line of the armhole. 5. Auxiliary points necessary for armhole design: G2P3 up \u003d G2P / 3 + 2 cm up from the bottom 1/3; Bisector from point B2 = 1/5G2G3 + 0.6 = 14.5 ÷5 + 0.6 = 3.5; We connect the points P1 with the point P3 with a straight line. We make an armhole under the pattern. Deflection P1P3 inside the drawing by 0.2 cm and under the pattern through the bisector to point G4. 6. We make out the lower cut of the backrest perpendicular to the outlet from the point H * 7. We make out the side cut of the backrest PARALLEL to the outlet from point G4. Г*Г4 = Н*Н21 I duplicate the photo of the drawing so that it is convenient to read and build. Building the front: T1T11 down - lowering along the waistline. It is set to wrap around the breast tissue. Depends on the size of the chest: 0 - up to 42 sizes and stooped figures 0.5 - 1 - standard (44 - 50 sizes) 1.1 - 1.6 - more than 50 sizes (50, 52, 54) We take 1 cm of reduction. 2. H1H11 down - lowering along the bottom line \u003d T1T11 \u003d 1 cm; 3. T11A11 up - the position of the highest point of the front neckline = Dtp - 1 cm to transfer the shoulder seam = 44.7 - 1 = 43.7; 4. A1A3 to the left - width of the front neck = AA2 = 6.6; 5. A11A4 Down = Front Throat Depth = A11A3 + 1 (Constant) = A11A3 + 1 = 7.6. We connect points A3 and A4 with a compass. 6. Auxiliary points necessary for constructing the slope of the shoulder: from point A3 to the left 9 cm (used as a constant value) From point 9 down 2.5-3.5 cm. The choice of value depends on the characteristics of the shoulders: 2.5 - high shoulders; 3 - standard; 3.5 - sloping shoulders. We take 3 cm - the standard. Through points A3 and 3 we draw the slope of the shoulder. At the intersection with the vertical, we set the point P2. 7. A3P3 to the left with a downward slope - shoulder width = A2P1 = 15.3 (from the drawing of the back) 8. Auxiliary points necessary for armhole design: P4 - perpendicular from point P5 to the front width line; P6 \u003d G3P4 ÷ 3. We take the lower 1/3. Bisector from the point G3 = 1/5 G2G3 = 14.5/5 = 2.9 We connect the points P5 and P6. We make a deflection of 0.5 inside the drawing and draw an armhole line. 9. We draw up the bottom line: G4H21 \u003d G4H22 Checking the width on the hip line: G * G4 \u003d B * B21, but you need to set aside point B21 on the horizontal line of the hips. We calculate the difference between the hips and chest, and complete the missing value on the hip line. Difference (P) \u003d (Sb + Pb) - G * G1 - (52 +3) - 54 \u003d 1 - this width is not enough for the hip line in the drawing. It should be evenly distributed along the side seams. If the value is negative, then this is an excess in the drawing and it must be evenly removed from the hip line. B21 to the right and B2 to the left - set aside 0.5 cm, expanding the drawing along the line of the hips. We equalize the sides of the side seam of the back and front. Fitting at the waist You can lay tucks in the side seams: From point T (or T21) on the side seam to the right and left 1.5-2 cm Darts on the back: If there is no middle seam, then the axial tuck in the middle of the width of the back T * G2 and parallel tap (see meshing). If there is a middle seam, then the center line of the waist tuck is in the middle of the waist line and parallel to the outlet. The length of the tuck to the line of the armhole and up 2 cm from the line of the hips. Dart width 2 cm. Dart on the front: The axial line of the tuck is in the middle of G3G1 if there is no fastener in the center of the front, and in the middle of T2T1 - if there is a fastener in the center of the front. Length - from the line of the armhole to the line of the hips, width - up to 2 cm.

I will explain how and why this dress will sit on different figures, and you yourself decide whether to sew this for yourself or not.

The fabric is flat, but the figure is not. In order for the fabric to fit the figure, for example, a tuck is laid in the chest area. The larger the chest, the larger the tuck. The smaller the chest, the simpler (tuckless) cut can be

And what is important: the larger the chest, the greater the difference between the measurements of the length of the front to the waist and the length of the back to the waist. If we make the front and back of the dress the same length, then the front will be stretched, and the excess fabric will sag along the waist of the back

If you don’t make a tuck, and there are no tucks in this dress, then all this fabric that needs to be put into the tuck will lie diagonally downward from the chest

There is nothing terrible in this, but some people do not like it. By the way, this also happens when the tuck is small for this chest.

If you sew from knitwear, then there will be fewer folds. The more stretchy knitwear, the less wrinkles and creases. And the softer the fabric (silk, thin cotton, linen, chiffon), the softer the excess fabric will be laid.

Of course, no one cancels the cut with tucks.

I propose to wear the dress that we will sew with a wide belt, and thus emphasize the figure. And the absence of darts will hide in the total volume of the overlap and folds in the belt area

Here's my straight-cut jersey dress.

In general, on a figure with small breasts, a dress with a straight cut without darts looks great. Girls with big breasts: try on a ready-made dress in the store and start sewing

The construction of the front and back pattern is as follows:

1. build a right angle at point O. Draw the line of the shoulder (to the right) and the middle of the dress (down)

2. To the right along the line of the shoulder, we postpone the measurement of the length of the shoulder plus 10-12 cm

3. Put down the Length to the hips, draw a horizontal line to the right (this will be the line of the hips).

Then we set aside the Length of the dress (+5 cm for a lap over the belt, if you wear it with a belt), draw a horizontal line to the right (bottom line)

4. At the level of the hips, set aside the Girth of the hips plus 0-10 cm (depending on the fabric) and divide by 4

In the picture with a brown dress, an increase of 10 cm, no more.

On my knitted (in specks) there is no increase in the hips (increase 0).

From the resulting point, draw a vertical up to the level of the sleeve and down to the level of the bottom.

That is, from the line of the hips to the bottom, the dress is even. You can fit a little later on the fitting

5. Shoulder bevel - 3 cm for the back and 5 cm for the shelf.

The bottom of the sleeve is at a right angle to the shoulder line. Set aside 18-25 cm, depending on the fullness of the arm and the desired width

6. set aside the perpendicular to the line of the bottom of the sleeve to the left

7. From the point of intersection of the lines, we set aside 3-4 cm along the bisector. And through the resulting point we draw a rounding of the side

8. Neckline of the shelf and back - according to the drawing.

When tailoring a dress, tailors, as a rule, build its pattern on the base of the base with an adjacent silhouette. For it, it is necessary to build a lot of tucks, correctly transfer them to an individual scheme, calculate the depth, and calibrate the solution. This is one of the most difficult stages of construction, and beginners often have difficulty with it. This does not mean that in the absence of skills in constructing darts, it is impossible to sew a beautiful outfit. There are styles of dresses and types of fabrics for which they are not needed.

A pattern without darts is used if you are working with elastic, stretchable materials. They “sculpturally” fit the figure without creating creases. Adjacent clothing made of dense, rigid materials without special sewn-in folds will bulge inaccurately and will not “sit down” on the figure. In the case of stretch cotton, knitwear or other similar matter, this problem does not arise. There are still limitations, and they are due to the "steepness" of the bends, especially in the upper body. If the breast size is large, it is not recommended to sew without darts. Otherwise, the increase in freedom of fit will have to be made very large, which will negatively affect the appearance of the product.

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You can work with non-stretch fabrics. In this case, it is advised to choose a free style. The drawing will be closer to a men's shirt than to a women's turtleneck sweater, which fits into modern fashion trends and reduces the time spent sewing and modeling. It doesn’t take many hours of work to build a base pattern without darts, and with due care, you will get a beautiful and functional outfit.

Measurements, calculations and increments

When designing clothes without darts, it is important to take measurements exactly according to the parameters of the body. If the material is elastic, and the style is adjacent, no increase is necessary.

Required measurements

• Bust, neck, waist and hip measurements.
• Lengths - the whole product, back and front to the waist, shoulder.
• Hip height and, for a separate sleeve pattern, arm measurements (wrist, widest part, length from shoulder to first bone of the little finger).

If you need an increase in freedom of fit, then for a base without darts, it must be done at least 6 cm along the chest line. For elastic matter, it can also be negative - in this case, you will get a spectacular tight-fitting dress. Be sure to take into account the tensile coefficient of a particular material so that the product does not “burst at the seams”. You need to be careful when taking into account the height of the barrel - in the base base it is lower than in the pattern of stretch fabrics. The features of constructing the scheme common to all materials are the absence of the need to take measurements in the center of the chest. On the front, measurements are taken as required when creating men's shirts.

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Regardless of the method chosen, you need to start building a drawing by calculating the basic parameters of the pattern.

• Base width - if the entire drawing does not fit on one sheet, you can model the shelf and back separately.
• The width along the back and the shelf in the chest and hips is half the amount along the front and back plus 2 centimeters.
• Width to the armhole on the back and shelf - width according to the measurements plus 1-2.5 cm, depending on the parameters of the chest.
• Width and height of the sprout and neck.

Building a grid and drawing

For a dress pattern without darts, it is necessary to build basic verticals and horizontals - the key axes of the grid.

Building

1. The horizontal line of the bottom and the initial line drawn up from it along the back.
2. Level at the waist (down from the original) and the line of the thigh laid off from it.
3. Vertical sections - median axes along the back and shelf.
4. Shoulder section connecting the points on the shoulder and side along the sprout and neck.

Having drawn a vertical equal to the length of the product, horizontal lines are laid along it, focusing on the depth of the armholes, the distance from the back to the waist, and the height of the hips. According to the obtained "skeleton" patterns perform the construction of curves and other lines. It is necessary to build the bisectors of the corners of the armhole - the parameters are determined by the size of the product. The key measurement is chest width. It determines how narrow and long the armhole will be. Its dimensions are limited (it cannot be increased indefinitely), so for curvaceous figures it is not always possible to do without a chest tuck.

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Progress

1. Back construction. Set aside the width of the back on the diagram, draw a perpendicular from the end of the segment, model the lines in the middle of the armhole. From the starting point of the drawing in the upper left corner, measure 7 cm to the right, from the end of the segment - 2 cm up. Using the pattern, draw the outlines of the neck along the back. Draw a shoulder line - its length is determined by measurement.
2. Armholes and sides. It is necessary to build auxiliary points to determine the lower level of the armhole, draw lines with the help of a template, slightly bending at the level of the hip and making it concave at the waist.
3. Front building. It is necessary to measure the length of the front to the waist in the drawing, draw a horizontal line from the end of the segment to the left. From it, draw down a perpendicular axis. The neckline on the front is drawn according to the pattern, and the shoulder is drawn with the help of auxiliary lines, on which the length is plotted according to the measure. The armholes and outlines of the sides are drawn similarly to the details of the back.

The position of the auxiliary marks that are needed when constructing the shoulder lines depends on the characteristics of the physique. If the shoulders are high, they lay off an additional 1.5 centimeters from the upper axis, if sloping - about 3. With an average position, 2 centimeters are enough. Lengthen the shoulder so that you can correctly draw a line along the armhole through its own auxiliary points.

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Also, when constructing a pattern, it is necessary to check the width along the thigh. Depending on the difference between it and the chest, you need to complete the missing segment. It is carried out along the femoral line, evenly distributed along the seams on the sides. Sides on the front and back equalize. When a negative value is obtained, the excess is removed in a similar way. The finished basic pattern is used for sewing dresses, elongated tops and T-shirts made of elastic fabric. You can also design a separate bodice pattern without darts for a blouse, vest, home or beachwear.

Drawing a bodice without darts

On the classic base pattern, most of the darts are located in the upper part - on the shoulders, chest, waist. Therefore, drawings of traditional bodices can also cause difficulties. Top patterns without darts can be used when designing products from elastic fabrics with a simplified cut - summer, home, basic casual clothes.

Ready-made schemes can be changed for sewing dresses made of knitted or lightweight materials, dressing gowns, peignoirs or pajamas. All parameters increase proportionally, and the bottom line is transferred along the length. Additionally, sleeves are drawn if they are needed. For schemes without tucks, designs with a reduced rim and an increased width, as well as models of a "shirt" type, are suitable. To model a loose bodice, slightly flat, loose in the upper part, the solution of the shoulder tuck along the back and front is transferred to the armhole. It lengthens, which is typical for clothes with sleeves with a small rim, which is why it is recommended to choose them.

If you do not need to outline the waist, you can also not save the tuck along its line. The lateral axis on such patterns runs in the center of the axillary vertical, and the back and front have the same width.

Progress

1. Transfer the shoulder and armhole sections with control icons from the basic pattern of the front of the bodice.
2. Cut the section between the mark on the armhole at the chest width level and the center of the chest, turn the piece and transfer the opening of the upper tuck into the armhole.
3. Draw a new outline of the armhole - inside the opened tuck you need to go 2 centimeters.
4. Similarly, translate the tuck along the back and draw a new armhole, increasing the width at the bottom by 0.5 cm.

The patterns obtained after changing the base drawing resemble details for voluminous, wide blouses. Using them, you can model clothes with wide sleeves, folds, including the top (cloaks).

Memo when designing

1. Outlining the base patterns, make sure that the cuts on the back and front lie parallel.
2. Along the midline of the back, you need to lengthen from the waist and symmetrically change the length along the shoulder in order to maintain proportions.
3. Along the axillary line, the width is increased, and therefore, in the armhole area, the details also need to be changed - deepened so that the volume throughout the structure is geometrically correct.
4. The new line along the armhole should touch the upper point of the side of the back on the original patterns - along the front it crosses the armpit 2.5 cm from the base mark, and the control badges are left at the same level during transfer.

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Sleeves for bodices without darts

On the basis of a classic sleeve pattern, you can model a detail for a dress or top without darts. You will need to adjust the shape in accordance with the new armhole lines, leaving the length of the element unchanged or reducing it according to the model. To obtain the desired parameters of the okat, the dimensions are taken from the drawing of the bodice and the value is reduced by a factor of three. The length in the armhole is also determined according to the product scheme. When compensating for elongation along the shoulder, the height of the eyelet is reduced by an average of 2.5 cm.

When measuring the girth in the upper part, you need to make an increase in fit - about 5 centimeters, plus the same amount additionally for expansion along the line of the armpit. The size of the recess along the armhole is doubled. When designing a classic wide sleeve, add about 15 cm to the girth along the wrist.

Progress

1. Draw two lines perpendicular to each other, building the height of the eyelet and the length of the entire part.
2. An axillary line is drawn, guided by the total girth along the shoulder.
3. Model the back of the part.
4. Designed in front with an elbow line - a tuck at this level is not required for the model, but if a cuff is provided, you need to make a cutout for the fastener.
5. Draw a bottom line - smoothly, according to the pattern.

The correct dimensions and longitudinal axes must be checked. You will need control marks for the okat - they are "responsible" for the correct connection of the part with the armhole of the entire product.